Ise: The Sun Goddess “Amaterasu”

Ise-Jingu Shrine, located in Mie prefecture, is the most venerated Shinto shrine in Japan which also appears in Japanese myth. There are 2 main shrines, the inner shrine “Naiku” and the outer shrine “Geku”. The inner shrine is dedicated to the sun goddess “Amaterasu-Omikami”, the guardian deity of the Japanese nationals. The outer shrine is dedicated to “Toyouke-no-Okami”, the deity of agriculture and industry.
A pilgrimage to the Ise-Jingu shrine was very popular during the Edo period. The Japanese enjoyed a trip through the pilgrimage although a private trip was prohibited by the government. It used to be an attractive tourist spot as well as the Shinto’s holiest sites.
It is very interesting that Ise-Jingu Shrine dedicated to the sun goddess is located in due east of Izanagi Shrine, where her father “Izanagi” is enshrined. I do not think this is a coincidence. Let me introduce the shrine with the related stories in Japanese myth.

Photo

Hiyokebashi Bridge in Geku

Main Sanctuary in Geku

Taga-no-miya in Geku

Approach to Main Sanctuary in Naiku

Main Sanctuary in Naiku

Kazahinomi-no-miya in Naiku

Oharai-machi Town

Okage-yokocho Town

Ago Bay

The Sun Goddess “Amaterasu”

After creating Japan islands and leaving his wife in the world of the dead, “Izanagi” washed his body in a river to purify himself. When he washed his left eye, “Amaterasu” was born. “Tsukuyomi” was born when washing his right eye, and “Susanoo” when washing his nose. He was so happy to have the three noble children. “Amaterasu” is the deity of the sun, “Tsukuyomi” is the deity of the moon and ruler of night, and “Susanoo” is the deity who rule the earth and the ocean.

However, “Susanoo” did not stop crying insisting on going to the world of the dead to meet his mother, and “Izanagi” decided to cast him out at last. “Susanoo” went up to the heaven to say goodbye to his sister “Amaterasu”, and showed violent behavior there. “Amaterasu” was tolerant of his violence at first, but hid herself in the heavenly rock cave due to fear, plunging the world into complete darkness.

Many deities got together near the river and discussed how to get “Amaterasu” out of the cave. They made the birds cry as if the morning had come and the female deity to dance to the music in front of the cave, and then numerous deities laughed at the same time. Hearing that laughter, “Amaterasu” wondered what happened and opened the door of the cave a little. The dancing deity told her that they were congratulating on the appearance of the new deity more precious than her, and showed the sacred mirror prepared in advance. Just when she opened the door further to see the reflection on the mirror, a deity staying at the side of the cave grasped her hand and pulled her out of the cave.

This is how light returned to the world again, and “Susanoo” was expelled to the lower world.

Recommendation

“Geku” (The outer shrine), Ise-Jingu Shrine
There are two parts in Ise-Jingu Shrine, Geku and Naiku. From ancient times, it is a custom for worshipers to visit Geku first and then Naiku. Geku is dedicated to “Toyouke-no-Okami”, the deity of agriculture and industry. It is said that she was invited to offer the sacred food to “Amaterasu”. It is located about 5 km apart from Naiku.

“Naiku” (The inner shrine), Ise-Jingu Shrine
It is dedicated to the sun goddess “Amaterasu”, who is the guardian deity of the Japanese nationals. The object enshrined is the sacred mirror “Yata-no-Kagami”, which was utilized to pull her out of the cave. It is said that, long afterward, when she decided to make her grandson go down to this country, she gave him the mirror so that he might think of it as herself and divine rice in heaven to make this country prosperous and peaceful.

Oharai-machi & Okage-yokocho
“Oharai-machi” is the prosperous town in front of “Naiku” filled with souvenir shops and restaurants, where you can enjoy shopping and eating after visiting the shrine. “Okage-yokocho” is located in the center of “Oharai-machi” which shows you the re-created streets with a traditional atmosphere.
“Ise Udon” noodles is a popular local dish in this area. It is soft noodles served in a dark sauce made from soy sauce, and quite different from general “Udon” noodles in Japan. You should also try “Akafuku Mochi“. It is a kind of rice cake covered with a sweet and smooth bean paste, and very popular sweets among the Japanese.

Toba and Shima Area
If you have time, I would like to recommend you rent a car to drive to “Toba” and “Shima” area. You should drive from Ise to Toba city area on “Ise Shima Skyline” road, and then to Shima area on “Pearl Road”, a scenic road along the east coast of Shima Peninsula. I visited Yokoyama Observation Deck to enjoy a panoramic view of Ago Bay, island dotted bay with an indented coastline which is famous for pearl cultivation.

Access

The nearby railway station is “Ise-shi”, and Kintetsu Railway is useful for you to get there from Kyoto, Osaka and Nagoya. It takes about 2 hours from Kyoto/Osaka, and about 1.5 hours from Nagoya.
You can walk to “Geku” in 5 minutes. After the worship at “Geku”, you should take a bus to “Naiku” which is located about 5 km apart from “Geku”.

Travel Route

Below is a typical plan to visit Ise. You can make a day trip but I would like to recommend you stay overnight and take a drive to “Toba” and “Shima” area if you have time, where you can enjoy a beautiful ocean view and fresh seafood. It would be also a great experience for you to stay at a resort hotel in this area.